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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their small shop earning such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.